Ear Saver Crochet Mask Extension Pattern

Here is my pattern for this Ear Saver mask extension. The pattern is extremely adjustable.
The length you need to make will also depend on the width of your head.
I didn't want mine too wide, so I just used sc, but if you wanted a wider band, you could use hdc or dc or just complete row 2 all the way around.

For the buttons, it seemed like it needed to be a large button so you could slip the band off more easily. Also, you don't want the button too flush against the crocheted strip, otherwise the button won't stay on. I ended up seeing my buttons on backwards so the ridged, decorative edge would push the button out from the strip somewhat.

Chain 21
1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 19 sc. 3 sc in last stitch. Continuing in the back loop of the chains, 18 sc. 2 sc in last stitch.
2: sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, skip the stitch you sl st in and 19 sc. Sl st in next stitch then finish off with invisible join.
Weave in tail.
Sew on a large button on each end.

Original Farmer Dog in Bib Overalls Stuffed Animal Crochet Pattern

**I've updated this pattern and am just keeping this for records and reference. The updated pattern works better.**








I still had some brown and blue thread I needed to use up after I finished Peter Rabbit, so I made this puppy in overalls. I started using two different patterns for the puppy then just gave up and made up the pattern.
The pattern I ended up making is below. The only thing I would change if I made this puppy again is I would make its tummy more of a ball then make the legs longer and put them directly underneath the tummy. The way this tummy is makes it so the puppy can't sit down. It also makes him wider, so the pants have to be baggier to fit him.


Dog Pattern:
Using Brown Size 4 yarn and a size G/6-4.00 MM hook


Inc - For this pattern it always means 2 sc in 1 stitch.
Dec - For this pattern it always means sc2tog.
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
sc2tog - sc 2 together
BLO - back loop only
FLO - front loop only




Body:
1: 4 sc in magic circle
2: Inc around - 8
3: (1sc, Inc) around - 12
4: (2 sc, Inc) around - 16
5: (3 sc, Inc) around - 20
6: (4 sc, Inc) around - 24
7: (5 sc, Inc) around - 28
8: (6 sc, Inc) around - 32
9-12: sc around - 32
13: (7 sc, Inc) around - 36
14: (8 sc, Inc) around - 40
15-16: sc around - 40
17: (9 sc, Inc) around - 44
18: (10 sc, Inc) around - 48
19: (11 sc, Inc) around - 52
20: (12 sc, Inc) around - 56
21: (13 sc, Inc) around - 60
22-26: sc around - 60
27: (13 sc, dec) around - 56
28: (12 sc, dec) around - 52
29: (11 sc, dec) around - 48
30: (10 sc, dec) around - 44
31: sc around - 44
32: (9 sc, dec) around - 40
33: (8 sc, Dec) around - 36
34: (7 sc, Dec) around - 32
35: (6 sc, Dec) around - 28
36: (5 sc, Dec) around - 24
37: (4 sc, Dec) around - 20
Begin stuffing
38: You will skip making a (3sc, dec) row so the tummy will be flatter on the bottom. Instead...(2 sc, Dec)*5 around - 15
39: (1 sc, Dec) around - 10
Finish stuffing
40: Dec around until closed.
Finish off and weave in tail.


Head: (I used the head pattern from The Labrador Site but left out their row 6. Below is my edited version.)1: 6 sc in a magic circle
2: Inc around - 12
3: (sc, Inc) around - 18
4: (2 sc, Inc) around - 24
5-9: sc around - 24
10: (3 sc, Inc) around - 30
11: (4 sc, Inc) around - 36
12: (5 sc, Inc)*5, 6 sc - 41
13: (6 sc, Inc)*5, 6 sc - 46
14: (7 sc, Inc)*5, 6 sc - 51
15-17: sc around - 51
18: (7 sc, Dec)*5, 6 sc - 46
19: (6 sc, Dec)*5, 6 sc - 41
20: (5 sc, Dec)*5, 6 sc - 36
21: sc around - 36
22: (4 sc, Dec) around - 30
23: (1 sc, Dec) around - 20

Stuff head.
24: Dec until closed.
Finish off and leave a long tail. Thread a craft needle and pull the tail through to the bottom of the head so you can sew it onto the body.


Ears: Make 2
1: 6 sc in magic circle
2: Inc around - 12
3: (sc, Inc) around - 18
4-7: sc around - 18
8: (sc 8, Inc)*2 - 20
9: sc around - 20
10: (sc 8, Dec)*2 - 18
11-12: sc around - 18
13: (sc 7, Dec)*2 - 16
14: (sc 6, Dec)*2 - 14
15: (sc 5, Dec)*2 - 12
16: (sc 4, Dec)*2 - 10
17: sc around - 10
18: turn, skip the 1st sc, then sc 4 through both front and back stitches, skip last sc.
Finish off, leaving a long tail.


Back Legs - Make 2
For the legs, the stitches in parentheses are all done in 1 stitch.
1: 6 sc in magic circle
2: (hdc+dc), (dc+hdc), sc, (hdc+dc), (dc+hdc), sc - 10
3: 1 sc, (2 hdc), (2 dc), (2 hdc), 2 sc, 3 Inc, 1 sc - 16
4: 2 sc, Inc, (2 hdc), (1 dc), (2 hdc), Inc, 3 sc, Inc, (2 hdc), (1 dc), (2 hdc), Inc, 1 sc - 24
5: 5 sc, 3 Inc, 9 sc, 3 Inc, 4 sc - 30
6: sc around - 30
7: 4 sc, (Dec, sc)*3, 9 sc, 1 Dec, 6 sc- 26
8: (sc, Dec)*5, 11 sc - 21
9: (Dec)*5, 11 sc - 16
10-19: sc around - 16
Stuff (don't stuff the top too full)
20: (sc, Dec)*5, sc - 11
21: Dec around until closed
Finish off, leaving a long tail.


Front Legs: Make 2

I used The Labrador Site's leg pattern (& left out row 6) for the front legs.
1: 6 sc in a magic circle
2: Inc around - 12
3: (sc, Inc) around - 18
4: (2 sc, Inc) around - 24
5: sc around - 24
6: 12 sc, (2 sc, Dec)*3 - 21

7: 12 sc, (sc, Dec)*3 - 18
8: 12 sc, (Dec)*3 - 15

9-22: sc around - 15
23: turn then sc through both the front and back stitch across - about 7
Make sure the flat part will lay against the body of the dog and allow the "paw" to face forward.
Finish off, leaving a long tail.


Tail: Here is the pattern that I made for my tail. Next time I would use the pattern below this one.
1: 4 sc in a magic circle
2: sc around - 4
3: (sc, Inc)*2 - 6
4: (2 sc, Inc)*2 - 8
5: (3 sc, Inc)*2 - 10
6-22 (or until desired length): sc around - 10
Sl st in next stitch then finish off, leaving a long "tail" 😉.


Tail #2: The tail that I made was a bit to skinny and long for my dog. Also, the tip wasn't quite right. Next time I'll try the pattern below.

1: 4 sc in a magic circle
2: sc around - 4
3: (sc, Inc)*2 - 6
4: sc around - 6
5: (2 sc, Inc)*2 - 8
6: (3 sc, Inc)*2 - 10
7: (4 sc, Inc)*2 - 12
8-21: sc around - 12
sl st in next stitch then finish off, leaving a long tail.


Sew parts together and embroider the eyes and face.








Overall Pattern:
This pattern will definitely need adjusting for another dog, but it worked perfectly for mine. I used #3 light blue yarn, so the yarn was smaller than the yarn I used for the dog. I used the same hook, though.
This pattern is made so you don't have to sew any parts together. The only downfall is that the seam is in the front. I suppose you could make the front panel (through row 3) then finish off, chain 20, sl st across the DCs, then chain 20 more. This would make the seam be in the back.
My dog's tail was also 1 stitch off center so the pattern may need to be adjusted 1 stitch starting from the tail hole down.
(Every time you make a (sl st, ch 2) make the 1st DC in the same stitch.)
Ch 13
1:1st row will be done working on the chain upside down. Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, DC across - 11
2: ch 2, turn, DC across - 11
3: ch 2, turn, DC across then ch 40
4-8: join with sl st to other side, ch 2, DC across
9: join with sl st, ch 2, 28 DC, ch 5 (skip 5 stitches for the dog's tail.), 18 sc
10-12: join with sl st, ch 2, DC around
Without cutting your yarn, you will start on the first leg.
13: sl st 6, ch 10, flatten the overalls and begin working directly across from your last sl st (this will split the overalls in half for the legs.) sl st 19
14: sl st, ch 2, 6 dc, BLO 10 DC, 19 DC
15: DC around
16: sc around, then finish off with an invisible join and weave in tail.

Now you will start on the other leg.
Starting at the front, sl st around to middle. (You will not have done the middle, connecting part yet.)
1: You will now be starting each row at the back of the pants. Ch 2 then FLO 10 DC, Both loops dc around
2: Ch 2, DC around
3: Ch 1, sc around.
Finish off with the invisible join and weave in tail.



Straps: You will make 2 - This pattern works for the tiny, craft buttons. If you want to use larger buttons, you will need to use hdc or dc.
Starting about 3 stitches away from the tail hole, join the yarn to the top, back of the overalls, ch 24
Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, sc across. Join to top of overalls, finish off and weave in tail.


Sew buttons on to the front, then you are finished!

Keychain Winnie the Pooh Mini Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Here is the pattern I used to make Winnie the Pooh.
Supplies:
1 skein yellow embroidery floss
1 skein red embroidery floss
#12, .60 mm crochet hook
Keychain ring (optional)

Head: using yellow
4 sc in magic circle
1 - 3 sc in 1 st , 1 sc in next st, 3 sc in 1 st, sc in next st - 8 st
2 - 1 sc, 2 Inc, 2 sc, 2 Inc, 1 sc - 12 st
3-4 - sc around
5 - 4 sc, 4 Inc, 4 sc - 16 st
6 - 4 sc, (1 sc, Inc)*4, 4 sc - 20 st
7 - (4 sc, Inc)*4 - 24 st
8 - (5 sc, Inc)*4 - 28 st
9 - (6 sc, Inc)*4 - 32 st
10-14 - 1 sc in each st around
15 - (6 sc, Dec)*4 - 28 st
16 - (5 sc, Dec)*4 - 24 st
17 - (4 sc, Dec)*4 - 20 st
18 - (3 sc, Dec)*4 - 16 st
19 - (2 sc, Dec)*4 - 12 St
20 - (sc, Dec)*4 - 8 st
21 - Dec around
Fo, leaving a long tail.
Use the end of the thread to sew the head on the body.

Body: using red and yellow

*When I made my Pooh I forgot to start with red. I ended up making a shirt and sliding it on afterwards. However, I think it would be much easier to crochet with red from round 1-13 then make rounds 14 and on in yellow. The pattern below is what I think it should be.

In Red:

Sc 4 In magic circle

1 - Inc*4 - 8 st

2 - (sc, Inc)*4 - 12 st

3 - (2 sc, Inc)*4 - 16 st

4 - (3 sc, Inc)*4 - 20 st 

5- (4 sc, Inc)*4 - 24 st
6 - (5 sc, Inc)*4 - 28 st
7 - (6 sc, Inc)*4 - 32 st

8-13 - sc around - 32 st

14-20 - switch to yellow, then sc around - 32 st

21 - (6 sc, Dec)*4 - 28 st

22 - (5 sc, Dec)*4 - 24 st
23 - (4 sc, Dec)*4 - 20 st
24 - (3 sc, Dec)*4 - 16 st
25 - (2 sc, Dec)*4 - 12 St
26 - (sc, Dec)*4 - 8 st
27 - Dec around
Fo, leaving a long tail.

Arms: Beginning in yellow
1: 6 sc in magic circle
2: Inc*6 - 12
3-5: sc around - 12
6: (sc, Dec)*4 - 8
Switch to red color.
7-10: sc around - 8
Stuff
4 sc through both sides across - 4
Fo, leaving a long tail.

Legs: In yellow

*I used the front leg pattern from my Eeyore. I think I only crocheted through round 12 then I sc2tog the leg closed. I don't think I did rounds 13-18, but don't remember for sure.

Ch 4
1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, Inc, SC, 3 SC in last st, SC, SC
2: (Inc)*2, SC, (Inc)*3, SC, Inc- (14)
3-5: SC around
6: SC 5, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, SC 2 (10)
7: SC 5, sc3tog, SC 2 (8)
Begin stuffing
8-12: SC around

*See note above 13: sc2tog closed.

*See note above. Eeyore 13-17: sc around

Finish stuffing
18: Dec around until closed, FO leaving a long tail.

Ears: I forget for sure what I did but I think it was something along the lines of:

1: 4 sc in mc - 4

2: ch 1, turn, 4 inc - 8

finish off. Fold the ends together to create a curved ear and sew on.

Embroider eyes and a nose. Add keychain.

18" Doll Cardigan or Vest

This is the pattern I used for the doll cardigan.

Peter Rabbit Crochet Amigurumi Pattern

This rabbit was a conglomeration of 7 different patterns, so I wrote out the combined pattern below.

I was using up odds and ends so I ended up using #3 light blue yarn and #4 dark brown yarn. The sweater was a teeny bit tight, so I think using #4 light blue yarn would work better. Also, if you are trying to replicate Peter Rabbit, light brown thread would be a bit better.

1 skein: light blue #4 yarn

1 skein: light brown #4 yarn

H crochet hook

A little bit of pink yarn for the nose

Plastic eyes or black thread

Head: using light brown yarn

4 sc in magic circle

1 - (3 sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next st)*2 - 8 st

2 - 1 sc, 2 Inc, 2 sc, 2 Inc, 1 sc - 12 st

3 - sc around

4 - (2 sc, Inc)*4 - 16 st

5 - (3 SC, Inc)*4 - 20 st

6 - (4 sc, Inc)*4 - 24 st

7 - (5 sc, Inc)*4 - 28 st

8 - 19 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc - 30 st

9 - 20 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc - 32 st

10-12 - Sc around

13 - (6 sc, Dec)*4 - 28 st

14 - (5 sc, Dec)*4 - 24 st

15 - (4 sc, Dec)*4 - 20 st

16 - (3 sc, Dec)*4 - 16 st

Begin stuffing

17 - (2 sc, Dec)*4 - 12 st

18 - (sc, dec)*4 - 8 st

Finish stuffing

19 - Dec until closed.

Finish off, sewing tail in.

Body: using light brown yarn

6 sc in magic circle

1 - Inc around - 12 st

2 - (sc, Inc)*6 - 18 st

3 - (2 sc, Inc)*6 - 24 st

4 - (3 sc, Inc)*6 - 30 st

5 - (4 sc, Inc)*6 - 36 st

6 - sc around

7 - (5 sc, Inc)*6 - 42 st

8-14 - sc around

15 - (5 sc, Dec)*6 - 36

Begin stuffing

16 - sc around

17 - (4 sc, Dec)*6 - 30

18-22 - sc around

23 - (3 sc, Dec)*6 - 24

24-26 - sc around

27 - (2 sc, Dec)*6 - 18

28 - sc around

29 - (sc, Dec)*6 - 12

Finish stuffing

30 - Dec around

Finish off, leaving a long tail.

Ears: Make 2 using light brown yarn

6 sc in magic circle

1 - (sc, Inc)*3 - 9

2 - sc around

3 - (2 sc, Inc)*3 - 12

4 - sc around

5 - (3 sc, Inc)*3 - 15

6-13 - sc around

14 - (3 sc, Dec)*3 - 12

15 - (2 sc, Dec)*3 - 9

Finish off, leaving a long tail.

Arms: Make 2 using light brown yarn

4 sc in magic circle

1 - 2 sc around - 8

2 - (sc, Inc)*4 - 12

3-5 - sc around

6 - (4 sc, Dec)*2 - 10

7- 15 - sc around 

16 - going through both the front and the back stitches, SC across - it should end up being 5 stitches.

Finish off, leaving a long tail.

Feet: Make 2 using light brown yarn

Sc 6 in magic circle

1: Inc around - 12

2: (sc, Inc) around - 18

3-7: sc around - 18

8: (sc, Dec) around - 12

9-12: sc around

Stuff

13: Flatten the foot and sc through the front and back stitches across - 6 st

14: ch 1, turn, sc across - 6 st

Finish off, leaving a long tail.

Assemble the rabbit then add the tail by making a pompom and sewing it on. Embroider the face.

Sweater: using light blue yarn

Foundation sc 17

2: ch 2, turn, dc across - 17 st

3: ch 1, turn, sc across - 17 st

4: ch 2, turn, hdc across - 17 st

5: ch 1, turn, sc across - 17 st

6: ch 2, turn, dc across - 17 st 

Arm Hole Row:

7: ch 2, turn, dc in next 6 st, hdc, 2 sc, ch 8, skip remaining stitches.

Join to the corner of ch-2 from row 6 (17 stitches including chains)

You will now be working the back panel and slip stitching to the front panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.

Back Panel:

Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 6. This will count as ch 2 for row 8. Turn.

8: dc in 8 ch, and in each st across - 17 st

9: ch 1, turn, sc across, join to the side of the SC from row 7, pull sl st tight. 2 sl st in ch-2 space of row 5. This will count as ch 2 (3 sl st total) for the next row. Turn.

10: dc across, ch 1, turn - 17st

11: 17 sc, ch 2, turn - 17 st

12-18: repeat rows 10 & 11, ending on dc row.

Arm Hole Row:

19: ch 2, turn, dc in next 6 st, hdc, 2 sc, ch 8, skip remaining stitches.

Join to the corner of ch-2 from row 6 (17 stitches including chains)

Front Left Panel:

20: ch 2, turn, dc across - 17 st

21: ch 1, sc across, join to the side of the sc from row 19, pull sl st tight. 2 sl st in ch-2 space of row 17. This will count as ch 2 (3 sl st total) for the next row. Turn.

22: hdc across - 17 st

23: ch 1, turn, sc across - 17 st

24: ch 2, turn, dc across - 17 st 

25: ch 1, turn, sc across, finish off - 17 st

Collar:

Starting at top, right corner:

Join with a sl st, ch 5

1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 hdc in BLO - 4 st

2: sl st in next 3 neck stitches (counts as ch 2), turn, 3 hdc in BLO, hdc in both loops - 4 st

3: ch 1, turn, 4 hdc in BLO - 4 st

4-end: repeat rows 2 & 3 until you reach the top, left corner. You should end on row 2.

Finish off and weave in tail.

Right Arm:

Join with sl st at the bottom of the arm hole.

1: ch 1, SC 16 times in arm hole, join - 16 st

2: ch 2, DC around, join - 16 st

3: ch 1, sc2tog, 14 SC, join - 15 st

4: ch 2, DC around, join - 15 st

5: ch 1, sc2tog, 13 SC, join - 14 st

6: ch 2, DC around, join - 14 st

7: ch 1, SC around, join, finish off - 14 st

Left Arm:

Join with sl st at the bottom of the arm hole.

1: ch 1, SC 16 times in arm hole, join - 16 st

2: ch 2, DC around, join - 16 st

3: ch 1,14 SC, sc2tog, join - 15 st

4: ch 2, DC around, join - 15 st

5: ch 1, 13 SC, sc2tog, join - 14 st

6: ch 2, DC around, join - 14 st

7: ch 1, SC around, join, finish off - 14 st

Updated 3-6 Month Crochet Cowboy Booties Pattern

3-6 month size:
Sole: 4" long, 1.75" at the widest part of the toe
Leg width: 2.25" in diameter
Whole boot: 3" tall without the point

This is the pattern for the 6-9 month booties if you need a larger size.

Here is the link to my original booties.

Ch = Chain
St = Stitch
Sc = Single Crochet
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Dc = Double Crochet
Sl St = Slip Stitch
FO = Finish Off
Hdc2tog = Half Double Crochet 2 Together
Hdc3tog = Half Double Crochet 3 Together
Dc2tog = Double Crochet 2 Together
Dc3tog = Double Crochet 3 Together
Inc = Single Crochet Increase

1 skein blue #4 medium weight yarn - B color
1 skein brown #4 weight yarn - A color
K 6.5 mm crochet hook


Sole: (Make 1 of each color, then you will slip stitch them together.)

Ch 11
Rnd 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 4 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st, 7 dc in last st. Working in back of chain, 1 dc in next 2 st, 1 hdc in next 2 st, 1 sc in next 5 st. - 26 st
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 dc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 9 st, 2 dc in each of next 5 st, 1 dc in each of next 9 st, 2 dc in last st. FO - 34 st


*The length of the soles will be the finished length of the bootie, so measure before going on.

*To keep from having a marking on the heel of your bootie, for the 1st st, just pull the thread through - don't actually sl st. You will just need to make sure the tail is tightly woven in so it will be secure.*
Working with B color sole on top, sl st around both soles (through both loops of color A and color B). Start in the middle stitch in the heel. Finish off (I use this method to for an invisible join.)

Boot Top and Leg: Color B
Rnd 3: *I always seem to have 35 stitches by this time. If you do too, follow these instructions for rnd 3 - SC in the 1st st, sc2tog, then 32 SC.  middle of the heel, sc around.* If you have 34 st, just SC around. - 34 st

Rnd 4: sc in next 11, hdc2tog, hdc, 3 hdc2tog, hdc, hdc2tog, sc in next 11 - 29 st
Rnd 5: 11 SC, hdc2tog, hdc3tog, hdc2tog, 11 sc - 25

Rnd 6: 9 SC, hdc2tog, hdc, hdc3tog, hdc, hdc2tog, 7 SC - 21

Rnd 7: 11 SC,  hdc2tog,  8 SC (or until you are in the middle of the heel), FO- 20

In color A: (from now on, you will begin each rnd with a sl st, ch 1 - read these instructions if you are unfamiliar with the invisible straight seam method.)

Rnds 8-11: SC around

Rnd 12: SC 4, Inc, sc 10, inc, SC 4

Rnd 13: SC 5, Inc, sc 11, Inc, SC 4

Rnd 14: SC 6, Inc, SC 11, Inc, SC 4 (or until middle of heel), sl st, fo
Rnd 15: In color B - SC 6, (hdc, dc), ch 2, (dc, hdc), SC 11, (hdc, dc), ch 2, (dc, hdc), SC 4, fo.
Weave in ends.

Stars: In color B - I embroidered the stars on using these instructions.

Crochet Parrot Wing Pattern

When I was making my hummingbird, I experimented with wings and this is one I came up with. I decided it looked like a parrot wing, so am keeping a record of the pattern here.

I made it using one strand of embroidery floss and a #12 .60 mm crochet hook.

Right Wing (looking at the back of the bird)
1: Purple: Ch 9, sl st to the top row of grey, in st between the grey and white
2: Sl st in next left st, skip 1st ch, and 7 SC, 2 SC in last ch (9)
3: Turn, ch 2 (it would be better to ch 3 or 4 for more of a point), SC across, sl st in body (10 inc. sl st)
4: blo, turn, ch 1, 8 SC, 2 SC in last st (10)
5: ch 3, turn, in both loops 9 SC, fo purple, in green - 1 SC, sl st in body
6: ch 1, turn, blo, SC 9, ch 4,
7: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, in both loops12 sc, sl st in body
8: ch 1, turn, sc