Cardinal Keychain Microamigurumi Pattern

For this cardinal, you will need:

1 skein of red embroidery floss

1 partial skein of black embroidery floss

1 partial skein of orange embroidery floss

Size 12 crochet hook

Keychain ring (optional)

Here is my pattern for my cardinal. I made the head and body pattern carefully, so it is pretty foolproof. However, I "winged it" with the tail and wings so the patterns are harder to follow.

Head & Body:
Using red
1: 4 sc in mc
2: Inc around - 8
3: Sc, Inc around - 12
4: 2 sc, Inc around - 16
5: 6 sc. In black, 4 sc. In red, 6 sc
6: 5 sc. In black, 6 sc. In red, 5 sc
7-8: 6 sc. In black, 5 sc. In red, 5 sc. Fo black
9: 2 sc, dec around - 12
10: 2 sc, Inc around - 16
11: 3 sc, Inc around - 20
12: 4 sc, Inc around - 24
13: 5 sc, Inc around - 28
14: 21 sc, move marker to next st.
15: Dec, 14 sc, dec,10 sc - 26
16: dec, 14 sc, dec, 8 sc - 24
17: dec, 14 sc, dec, 6 sc - 22
18: dec, 14 sc, dec, 4 sc - 20
19: dec, 14 sc, dec, 2 sc - 18
Being stuffing
20: 2 Dec, 8 sc, 3 dec- 13
21: dec around
Finish off. I pulled the tail to the middle of the stomach and used it to home the cardinal while making its wings and tail. Weave in the tail when you finish everything else.

Wings: make 2 with red

The rows will be done in the top loop of the previous row. (The loop on the outside facing part of the bird.)

Mark the middle of the back with a piece of thread.

Start at the side about 1 row below the head and:

1: Dc from the side to the middle of the back in a curve (see photo)

2: Ch 1, turn, sc across about 2/3 of the previous row

3: Ch 1, turn, sc, then dc across previous row

4: Ch 2, turn, skip 1st st, dc across the previous row.

At this point the wing should be tapering itself somewhat. If not, skip the final stitch to create the tapering effect.

5: Repeat row 4

Now there should only be a couple stitches in the row. If you want a more pointed wing, repeat row one more time before finishing off.

If the wing is the satisfactory length and shape, finish off and weave in tail.

Tail: in red

1 row from the end of the body, sc across from the inside edge of one wing to the inside edge of the other. (About 6 or 7 stitches)

Turn, ch 2, dc in top loop only across.

Repeat until desired length then finish off.

Beak: in orange

I didn't make the beak very scientifically. Next time I make it I will probably have to follow a different pattern. However, I am recording the following pattern for reference.

In the middle of the black, you will sc about 3 st in 1 stitch. This will create a fan effect. It should be a vertical fan rather than horizontal.

Turn, ch 1, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc.

After this, I finished off and used my extra thread to sew the outer edge down, making a cone shape.

Comb:

Start at the middle, front of the head and work your way to the back.

Pull a slip stitch through and knot. Here is a photo tutorial.

When you are finished, brush the "feathers" back and cut to the desired length.

Embroider eyes and add feet the same way you added hair.

Add a keychain if desired.

Ear Saver Crochet Mask Extension Pattern

Here is my pattern for this Ear Saver mask extension. The pattern is extremely adjustable.
The length you need to make will also depend on the width of your head.
I didn't want mine too wide, so I just used sc, but if you wanted a wider band, you could use hdc or dc or just complete row 2 all the way around.

For the buttons, it seemed like it needed to be a large button so you could slip the band off more easily. Also, you don't want the button too flush against the crocheted strip, otherwise the button won't stay on. I ended up seeing my buttons on backwards so the ridged, decorative edge would push the button out from the strip somewhat.

Chain 21
1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 19 sc. 3 sc in last stitch. Continuing in the back loop of the chains, 18 sc. 2 sc in last stitch.
2: sl st in 1st sc, ch 1, skip the stitch you sl st in and 19 sc. Sl st in next stitch then finish off with invisible join.
Weave in tail.
Sew on a large button on each end.

Original Farmer Dog in Bib Overalls Stuffed Animal Crochet Pattern

**I've updated this pattern and am just keeping this for records and reference. The updated pattern works better.**








I still had some brown and blue thread I needed to use up after I finished Peter Rabbit, so I made this puppy in overalls. I started using two different patterns for the puppy then just gave up and made up the pattern.
The pattern I ended up making is below. The only thing I would change if I made this puppy again is I would make its tummy more of a ball then make the legs longer and put them directly underneath the tummy. The way this tummy is makes it so the puppy can't sit down. It also makes him wider, so the pants have to be baggier to fit him.


Dog Pattern:
Using Brown Size 4 yarn and a size G/6-4.00 MM hook


Inc - For this pattern it always means 2 sc in 1 stitch.
Dec - For this pattern it always means sc2tog.
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
sc2tog - sc 2 together
BLO - back loop only
FLO - front loop only




Body:
1: 4 sc in magic circle
2: Inc around - 8
3: (1sc, Inc) around - 12
4: (2 sc, Inc) around - 16
5: (3 sc, Inc) around - 20
6: (4 sc, Inc) around - 24
7: (5 sc, Inc) around - 28
8: (6 sc, Inc) around - 32
9-12: sc around - 32
13: (7 sc, Inc) around - 36
14: (8 sc, Inc) around - 40
15-16: sc around - 40
17: (9 sc, Inc) around - 44
18: (10 sc, Inc) around - 48
19: (11 sc, Inc) around - 52
20: (12 sc, Inc) around - 56
21: (13 sc, Inc) around - 60
22-26: sc around - 60
27: (13 sc, dec) around - 56
28: (12 sc, dec) around - 52
29: (11 sc, dec) around - 48
30: (10 sc, dec) around - 44
31: sc around - 44
32: (9 sc, dec) around - 40
33: (8 sc, Dec) around - 36
34: (7 sc, Dec) around - 32
35: (6 sc, Dec) around - 28
36: (5 sc, Dec) around - 24
37: (4 sc, Dec) around - 20
Begin stuffing
38: You will skip making a (3sc, dec) row so the tummy will be flatter on the bottom. Instead...(2 sc, Dec)*5 around - 15
39: (1 sc, Dec) around - 10
Finish stuffing
40: Dec around until closed.
Finish off and weave in tail.


Head: (I used the head pattern from The Labrador Site but left out their row 6. Below is my edited version.)1: 6 sc in a magic circle
2: Inc around - 12
3: (sc, Inc) around - 18
4: (2 sc, Inc) around - 24
5-9: sc around - 24
10: (3 sc, Inc) around - 30
11: (4 sc, Inc) around - 36
12: (5 sc, Inc)*5, 6 sc - 41
13: (6 sc, Inc)*5, 6 sc - 46
14: (7 sc, Inc)*5, 6 sc - 51
15-17: sc around - 51
18: (7 sc, Dec)*5, 6 sc - 46
19: (6 sc, Dec)*5, 6 sc - 41
20: (5 sc, Dec)*5, 6 sc - 36
21: sc around - 36
22: (4 sc, Dec) around - 30
23: (1 sc, Dec) around - 20

Stuff head.
24: Dec until closed.
Finish off and leave a long tail. Thread a craft needle and pull the tail through to the bottom of the head so you can sew it onto the body.


Ears: Make 2
1: 6 sc in magic circle
2: Inc around - 12
3: (sc, Inc) around - 18
4-7: sc around - 18
8: (sc 8, Inc)*2 - 20
9: sc around - 20
10: (sc 8, Dec)*2 - 18
11-12: sc around - 18
13: (sc 7, Dec)*2 - 16
14: (sc 6, Dec)*2 - 14
15: (sc 5, Dec)*2 - 12
16: (sc 4, Dec)*2 - 10
17: sc around - 10
18: turn, skip the 1st sc, then sc 4 through both front and back stitches, skip last sc.
Finish off, leaving a long tail.


Back Legs - Make 2
For the legs, the stitches in parentheses are all done in 1 stitch.
1: 6 sc in magic circle
2: (hdc+dc), (dc+hdc), sc, (hdc+dc), (dc+hdc), sc - 10
3: 1 sc, (2 hdc), (2 dc), (2 hdc), 2 sc, 3 Inc, 1 sc - 16
4: 2 sc, Inc, (2 hdc), (1 dc), (2 hdc), Inc, 3 sc, Inc, (2 hdc), (1 dc), (2 hdc), Inc, 1 sc - 24
5: 5 sc, 3 Inc, 9 sc, 3 Inc, 4 sc - 30
6: sc around - 30
7: 4 sc, (Dec, sc)*3, 9 sc, 1 Dec, 6 sc- 26
8: (sc, Dec)*5, 11 sc - 21
9: (Dec)*5, 11 sc - 16
10-19: sc around - 16
Stuff (don't stuff the top too full)
20: (sc, Dec)*5, sc - 11
21: Dec around until closed
Finish off, leaving a long tail.


Front Legs: Make 2

I used The Labrador Site's leg pattern (& left out row 6) for the front legs.
1: 6 sc in a magic circle
2: Inc around - 12
3: (sc, Inc) around - 18
4: (2 sc, Inc) around - 24
5: sc around - 24
6: 12 sc, (2 sc, Dec)*3 - 21

7: 12 sc, (sc, Dec)*3 - 18
8: 12 sc, (Dec)*3 - 15

9-22: sc around - 15
23: turn then sc through both the front and back stitch across - about 7
Make sure the flat part will lay against the body of the dog and allow the "paw" to face forward.
Finish off, leaving a long tail.


Tail: Here is the pattern that I made for my tail. Next time I would use the pattern below this one.
1: 4 sc in a magic circle
2: sc around - 4
3: (sc, Inc)*2 - 6
4: (2 sc, Inc)*2 - 8
5: (3 sc, Inc)*2 - 10
6-22 (or until desired length): sc around - 10
Sl st in next stitch then finish off, leaving a long "tail" 😉.


Tail #2: The tail that I made was a bit to skinny and long for my dog. Also, the tip wasn't quite right. Next time I'll try the pattern below.

1: 4 sc in a magic circle
2: sc around - 4
3: (sc, Inc)*2 - 6
4: sc around - 6
5: (2 sc, Inc)*2 - 8
6: (3 sc, Inc)*2 - 10
7: (4 sc, Inc)*2 - 12
8-21: sc around - 12
sl st in next stitch then finish off, leaving a long tail.


Sew parts together and embroider the eyes and face.








Overall Pattern:
This pattern will definitely need adjusting for another dog, but it worked perfectly for mine. I used #3 light blue yarn, so the yarn was smaller than the yarn I used for the dog. I used the same hook, though.
This pattern is made so you don't have to sew any parts together. The only downfall is that the seam is in the front. I suppose you could make the front panel (through row 3) then finish off, chain 20, sl st across the DCs, then chain 20 more. This would make the seam be in the back.
My dog's tail was also 1 stitch off center so the pattern may need to be adjusted 1 stitch starting from the tail hole down.
(Every time you make a (sl st, ch 2) make the 1st DC in the same stitch.)
Ch 13
1:1st row will be done working on the chain upside down. Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, DC across - 11
2: ch 2, turn, DC across - 11
3: ch 2, turn, DC across then ch 40
4-8: join with sl st to other side, ch 2, DC across
9: join with sl st, ch 2, 28 DC, ch 5 (skip 5 stitches for the dog's tail.), 18 sc
10-12: join with sl st, ch 2, DC around
Without cutting your yarn, you will start on the first leg.
13: sl st 6, ch 10, flatten the overalls and begin working directly across from your last sl st (this will split the overalls in half for the legs.) sl st 19
14: sl st, ch 2, 6 dc, BLO 10 DC, 19 DC
15: DC around
16: sc around, then finish off with an invisible join and weave in tail.

Now you will start on the other leg.
Starting at the front, sl st around to middle. (You will not have done the middle, connecting part yet.)
1: You will now be starting each row at the back of the pants. Ch 2 then FLO 10 DC, Both loops dc around
2: Ch 2, DC around
3: Ch 1, sc around.
Finish off with the invisible join and weave in tail.



Straps: You will make 2 - This pattern works for the tiny, craft buttons. If you want to use larger buttons, you will need to use hdc or dc.
Starting about 3 stitches away from the tail hole, join the yarn to the top, back of the overalls, ch 24
Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, sc across. Join to top of overalls, finish off and weave in tail.


Sew buttons on to the front, then you are finished!

Keychain Winnie the Pooh Mini Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Here is the pattern I used to make Winnie the Pooh.
Supplies:
1 skein yellow embroidery floss
1 skein red embroidery floss
#12, .60 mm crochet hook
Keychain ring (optional)

Head: using yellow
4 sc in magic circle
1 - 3 sc in 1 st , 1 sc in next st, 3 sc in 1 st, sc in next st - 8 st
2 - 1 sc, 2 Inc, 2 sc, 2 Inc, 1 sc - 12 st
3-4 - sc around
5 - 4 sc, 4 Inc, 4 sc - 16 st
6 - 4 sc, (1 sc, Inc)*4, 4 sc - 20 st
7 - (4 sc, Inc)*4 - 24 st
8 - (5 sc, Inc)*4 - 28 st
9 - (6 sc, Inc)*4 - 32 st
10-14 - 1 sc in each st around
15 - (6 sc, Dec)*4 - 28 st
16 - (5 sc, Dec)*4 - 24 st
17 - (4 sc, Dec)*4 - 20 st
18 - (3 sc, Dec)*4 - 16 st
19 - (2 sc, Dec)*4 - 12 St
20 - (sc, Dec)*4 - 8 st
21 - Dec around
Fo, leaving a long tail.
Use the end of the thread to sew the head on the body.

Body: using red and yellow

*When I made my Pooh I forgot to start with red. I ended up making a shirt and sliding it on afterwards. However, I think it would be much easier to crochet with red from round 1-13 then make rounds 14 and on in yellow. The pattern below is what I think it should be.

In Red:

Sc 4 In magic circle

1 - Inc*4 - 8 st

2 - (sc, Inc)*4 - 12 st

3 - (2 sc, Inc)*4 - 16 st

4 - (3 sc, Inc)*4 - 20 st 

5- (4 sc, Inc)*4 - 24 st
6 - (5 sc, Inc)*4 - 28 st
7 - (6 sc, Inc)*4 - 32 st

8-13 - sc around - 32 st

14-20 - switch to yellow, then sc around - 32 st

21 - (6 sc, Dec)*4 - 28 st

22 - (5 sc, Dec)*4 - 24 st
23 - (4 sc, Dec)*4 - 20 st
24 - (3 sc, Dec)*4 - 16 st
25 - (2 sc, Dec)*4 - 12 St
26 - (sc, Dec)*4 - 8 st
27 - Dec around
Fo, leaving a long tail.

Arms: Beginning in yellow
1: 6 sc in magic circle
2: Inc*6 - 12
3-5: sc around - 12
6: (sc, Dec)*4 - 8
Switch to red color.
7-10: sc around - 8
Stuff
4 sc through both sides across - 4
Fo, leaving a long tail.

Legs: In yellow

*I used the front leg pattern from my Eeyore. I think I only crocheted through round 12 then I sc2tog the leg closed. I don't think I did rounds 13-18, but don't remember for sure.

Ch 4
1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, Inc, SC, 3 SC in last st, SC, SC
2: (Inc)*2, SC, (Inc)*3, SC, Inc- (14)
3-5: SC around
6: SC 5, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, SC 2 (10)
7: SC 5, sc3tog, SC 2 (8)
Begin stuffing
8-12: SC around

*See note above 13: sc2tog closed.

*See note above. Eeyore 13-17: sc around

Finish stuffing
18: Dec around until closed, FO leaving a long tail.

Ears: I forget for sure what I did but I think it was something along the lines of:

1: 4 sc in mc - 4

2: ch 1, turn, 4 inc - 8

finish off. Fold the ends together to create a curved ear and sew on.

Embroider eyes and a nose. Add keychain.

18" Doll Cardigan or Vest

This is the pattern I used for the doll cardigan.

Peter Rabbit Crochet Amigurumi Pattern

This rabbit was a conglomeration of 7 different patterns, so I wrote out the combined pattern below.

I was using up odds and ends so I ended up using #3 light blue yarn and #4 dark brown yarn. The sweater was a teeny bit tight, so I think using #4 light blue yarn would work better. Also, if you are trying to replicate Peter Rabbit, light brown thread would be a bit better.

1 skein: light blue #4 yarn

1 skein: light brown #4 yarn

H crochet hook

A little bit of pink yarn for the nose

Plastic eyes or black thread

Head: using light brown yarn

4 sc in magic circle

1 - (3 sc in 1 st, 1 sc in next st)*2 - 8 st

2 - 1 sc, 2 Inc, 2 sc, 2 Inc, 1 sc - 12 st

3 - sc around

4 - (2 sc, Inc)*4 - 16 st

5 - (3 SC, Inc)*4 - 20 st

6 - (4 sc, Inc)*4 - 24 st

7 - (5 sc, Inc)*4 - 28 st

8 - 19 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc - 30 st

9 - 20 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc - 32 st

10-12 - Sc around

13 - (6 sc, Dec)*4 - 28 st

14 - (5 sc, Dec)*4 - 24 st

15 - (4 sc, Dec)*4 - 20 st

16 - (3 sc, Dec)*4 - 16 st

Begin stuffing

17 - (2 sc, Dec)*4 - 12 st

18 - (sc, dec)*4 - 8 st

Finish stuffing

19 - Dec until closed.

Finish off, sewing tail in.

Body: using light brown yarn

6 sc in magic circle

1 - Inc around - 12 st

2 - (sc, Inc)*6 - 18 st

3 - (2 sc, Inc)*6 - 24 st

4 - (3 sc, Inc)*6 - 30 st

5 - (4 sc, Inc)*6 - 36 st

6 - sc around

7 - (5 sc, Inc)*6 - 42 st

8-14 - sc around

15 - (5 sc, Dec)*6 - 36

Begin stuffing

16 - sc around

17 - (4 sc, Dec)*6 - 30

18-22 - sc around

23 - (3 sc, Dec)*6 - 24

24-26 - sc around

27 - (2 sc, Dec)*6 - 18

28 - sc around

29 - (sc, Dec)*6 - 12

Finish stuffing

30 - Dec around

Finish off, leaving a long tail.

Ears: Make 2 using light brown yarn

6 sc in magic circle

1 - (sc, Inc)*3 - 9

2 - sc around

3 - (2 sc, Inc)*3 - 12

4 - sc around

5 - (3 sc, Inc)*3 - 15

6-13 - sc around

14 - (3 sc, Dec)*3 - 12

15 - (2 sc, Dec)*3 - 9

Finish off, leaving a long tail.

Arms: Make 2 using light brown yarn

4 sc in magic circle

1 - 2 sc around - 8

2 - (sc, Inc)*4 - 12

3-5 - sc around

6 - (4 sc, Dec)*2 - 10

7- 15 - sc around 

16 - going through both the front and the back stitches, SC across - it should end up being 5 stitches.

Finish off, leaving a long tail.

Feet: Make 2 using light brown yarn

Sc 6 in magic circle

1: Inc around - 12

2: (sc, Inc) around - 18

3-7: sc around - 18

8: (sc, Dec) around - 12

9-12: sc around

Stuff

13: Flatten the foot and sc through the front and back stitches across - 6 st

14: ch 1, turn, sc across - 6 st

Finish off, leaving a long tail.

Assemble the rabbit then add the tail by making a pompom and sewing it on. Embroider the face.

Sweater: using light blue yarn

Foundation sc 17

2: ch 2, turn, dc across - 17 st

3: ch 1, turn, sc across - 17 st

4: ch 2, turn, hdc across - 17 st

5: ch 1, turn, sc across - 17 st

6: ch 2, turn, dc across - 17 st 

Arm Hole Row:

7: ch 2, turn, dc in next 6 st, hdc, 2 sc, ch 8, skip remaining stitches.

Join to the corner of ch-2 from row 6 (17 stitches including chains)

You will now be working the back panel and slip stitching to the front panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.

Back Panel:

Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 6. This will count as ch 2 for row 8. Turn.

8: dc in 8 ch, and in each st across - 17 st

9: ch 1, turn, sc across, join to the side of the SC from row 7, pull sl st tight. 2 sl st in ch-2 space of row 5. This will count as ch 2 (3 sl st total) for the next row. Turn.

10: dc across, ch 1, turn - 17st

11: 17 sc, ch 2, turn - 17 st

12-18: repeat rows 10 & 11, ending on dc row.

Arm Hole Row:

19: ch 2, turn, dc in next 6 st, hdc, 2 sc, ch 8, skip remaining stitches.

Join to the corner of ch-2 from row 6 (17 stitches including chains)

Front Left Panel:

20: ch 2, turn, dc across - 17 st

21: ch 1, sc across, join to the side of the sc from row 19, pull sl st tight. 2 sl st in ch-2 space of row 17. This will count as ch 2 (3 sl st total) for the next row. Turn.

22: hdc across - 17 st

23: ch 1, turn, sc across - 17 st

24: ch 2, turn, dc across - 17 st 

25: ch 1, turn, sc across, finish off - 17 st

Collar:

Starting at top, right corner:

Join with a sl st, ch 5

1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 hdc in BLO - 4 st

2: sl st in next 3 neck stitches (counts as ch 2), turn, 3 hdc in BLO, hdc in both loops - 4 st

3: ch 1, turn, 4 hdc in BLO - 4 st

4-end: repeat rows 2 & 3 until you reach the top, left corner. You should end on row 2.

Finish off and weave in tail.

Right Arm:

Join with sl st at the bottom of the arm hole.

1: ch 1, SC 16 times in arm hole, join - 16 st

2: ch 2, DC around, join - 16 st

3: ch 1, sc2tog, 14 SC, join - 15 st

4: ch 2, DC around, join - 15 st

5: ch 1, sc2tog, 13 SC, join - 14 st

6: ch 2, DC around, join - 14 st

7: ch 1, SC around, join, finish off - 14 st

Left Arm:

Join with sl st at the bottom of the arm hole.

1: ch 1, SC 16 times in arm hole, join - 16 st

2: ch 2, DC around, join - 16 st

3: ch 1,14 SC, sc2tog, join - 15 st

4: ch 2, DC around, join - 15 st

5: ch 1, 13 SC, sc2tog, join - 14 st

6: ch 2, DC around, join - 14 st

7: ch 1, SC around, join, finish off - 14 st

Updated 3-6 Month Crochet Cowboy Booties Pattern

3-6 month size:
Sole: 4" long, 1.75" at the widest part of the toe
Leg width: 2.25" in diameter
Whole boot: 3" tall without the point

This is the pattern for the 6-9 month booties if you need a larger size.

Here is the link to my original booties.

Ch = Chain
St = Stitch
Sc = Single Crochet
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Dc = Double Crochet
Sl St = Slip Stitch
FO = Finish Off
Hdc2tog = Half Double Crochet 2 Together
Hdc3tog = Half Double Crochet 3 Together
Dc2tog = Double Crochet 2 Together
Dc3tog = Double Crochet 3 Together
Inc = Single Crochet Increase

1 skein blue #4 medium weight yarn - B color
1 skein brown #4 weight yarn - A color
K 6.5 mm crochet hook


Sole: (Make 1 of each color, then you will slip stitch them together.)

Ch 11
Rnd 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 4 st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 2 st, 7 dc in last st. Working in back of chain, 1 dc in next 2 st, 1 hdc in next 2 st, 1 sc in next 5 st. - 26 st
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 dc in each of next 2 st, 1 dc in each of next 9 st, 2 dc in each of next 5 st, 1 dc in each of next 9 st, 2 dc in last st. FO - 34 st


*The length of the soles will be the finished length of the bootie, so measure before going on.

*To keep from having a marking on the heel of your bootie, for the 1st st, just pull the thread through - don't actually sl st. You will just need to make sure the tail is tightly woven in so it will be secure.*
Working with B color sole on top, sl st around both soles (through both loops of color A and color B). Start in the middle stitch in the heel. Finish off (I use this method to for an invisible join.)

Boot Top and Leg: Color B
Rnd 3: *I always seem to have 35 stitches by this time. If you do too, follow these instructions for rnd 3 - SC in the 1st st, sc2tog, then 32 SC.  middle of the heel, sc around.* If you have 34 st, just SC around. - 34 st

Rnd 4: sc in next 11, hdc2tog, hdc, 3 hdc2tog, hdc, hdc2tog, sc in next 11 - 29 st
Rnd 5: 11 SC, hdc2tog, hdc3tog, hdc2tog, 11 sc - 25

Rnd 6: 9 SC, hdc2tog, hdc, hdc3tog, hdc, hdc2tog, 7 SC - 21

Rnd 7: 11 SC,  hdc2tog,  8 SC (or until you are in the middle of the heel), FO- 20

In color A: (from now on, you will begin each rnd with a sl st, ch 1 - read these instructions if you are unfamiliar with the invisible straight seam method.)

Rnds 8-11: SC around

Rnd 12: SC 4, Inc, sc 10, inc, SC 4

Rnd 13: SC 5, Inc, sc 11, Inc, SC 4

Rnd 14: SC 6, Inc, SC 11, Inc, SC 4 (or until middle of heel), sl st, fo
Rnd 15: In color B - SC 6, (hdc, dc), ch 2, (dc, hdc), SC 11, (hdc, dc), ch 2, (dc, hdc), SC 4, fo.
Weave in ends.

Stars: In color B - I embroidered the stars on using these instructions.

Crochet Parrot Wing Pattern

When I was making my hummingbird, I experimented with wings and this is one I came up with. I decided it looked like a parrot wing, so am keeping a record of the pattern here.

I made it using one strand of embroidery floss and a #12 .60 mm crochet hook.

Right Wing (looking at the back of the bird)
1: Purple: Ch 9, sl st to the top row of grey, in st between the grey and white
2: Sl st in next left st, skip 1st ch, and 7 SC, 2 SC in last ch (9)
3: Turn, ch 2 (it would be better to ch 3 or 4 for more of a point), SC across, sl st in body (10 inc. sl st)
4: blo, turn, ch 1, 8 SC, 2 SC in last st (10)
5: ch 3, turn, in both loops 9 SC, fo purple, in green - 1 SC, sl st in body
6: ch 1, turn, blo, SC 9, ch 4,
7: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, in both loops12 sc, sl st in body
8: ch 1, turn, sc

Micro Crochet Keychain Hummingbird Pattern

Here is the pattern for my keychain hummingbird. 

His wings wouldn't stay down nicely, so I got him soaking wet, then pinned them to his body while they dried.

It is easy to make, but the pattern is a bit confusing.

If I ever made it again, I would start the rounds in the grey instead of the white, so the wings would hide the seam. 

Materials:

1 skein of white embroidery floss

1 skein of grey embroidery floss

1 skein of dark purple embroidery floss

1 skein of dark pink embroidery floss

1 skein of dark green embroidery floss

Black embroidery floss for details

A small amount of polyester fiberfill - or any stuffing

# 12 size .60 mm crochet hook

Tiny keychain ring

Sl st = Slip Stitch

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single Crochet
Inc = 2 Single Crochet in 1 st
Dec = Sc 2 together
Fo = Finish Off

You will use 1 strand of embroidery floss at a time to make this.

This is the technique I use to change colors. I explained it in round 2, but you will use this technique every time it says to change colors.

This is the technique I use to keep my rounds straight. At the beginning of each round, skip over the (sl st, ch 1) of previous round and (sl st, ch 1) in the 1st st of the round. The 1st stitch written will be made in the same stitch as the (sl st, ch 1) you just made. I explained it in round 2, but you will use this technique at the beginning of every row. 

In White:

1: Crochet 6 sc in a magic circle - (6)
2: (Sl st, ch 1, inc), 1 sc (instead of pulling the white thread through the last loop, pull grey thread), in grey - 1 inc, 1 SC, 1 Inc, W - 1 SC - (9)
3: In white - Inc, 2 SC. In grey - Inc, 2 SC, Inc, 1 SC. In white - 1 SC - (12)
4: In white - Inc, 3 SC. In grey - Inc, 3 SC, Inc, 2 SC. In white - 1 SC - (15)
5: In white - Inc, 4 SC. In grey - Inc, 4 SC, Inc, 3 SC. In white - 1 SC - (18)
6: In white - Inc, 5 SC. In grey - inc, 5 SC, Inc, 4 SC. In white - 1 SC - (21)
7-11: In white - 7 SC. In grey - 13 SC. In white - 1 SC - (21)
12: In white - 7 SC. In grey - 12 SC, sl st, FO (20)
13: This round starts in the last stitch of what should be the previous round. In red, sl st, ch 1, 19 SC, 1 SC (in base of grey sl st) - (21)
15: In red - SC 9, sc2tog, SC, sc2tog. In green -2 SC. In red - sc2tog, SC, sc2tog - (17)
16: In red - SC 11. In green - SC 4. In red - SC 2 - (17)
17: In red -  SC 8. In green - (sc, Inc)*2, (Inc, SC)*2. In red - 1 SC - (21)
18: In red -  SC 7. In green - (2 SC, Inc)*2, 1 SC, (Inc, 2 SC)*2 , 1 SC - (25)
19: Still in green, 3 SC. In red - 1 SC (fo red). In green - 21 sc - (25)
20: In green until the end - SC around - (25)
21: (SC, sc2tog)*6, 2 sc2tog, SC, sc2tog - (16)
Stuff
22: 8 sc2tog - (8)
23: 4 sc2tog - (4)
Fo

Tail: In green
Starting on the bottom, right side of the back of the hummingbird
1: Sl st in 1st grey stitch, ch 3
2: turn, skip 1st ch, SC in next 2 ch, sl st in grey st on body
3: sl st in next grey st, ch 1, turn, sc in next 2 st
4: ch 1, turn, sc in next 2 st, sl st in grey st, fo
5: In purple, sl st, ch 3, sl st, ch 3, sl st, fo

This is the stitch you start the wing in.

Wings: In purple

You will start the wings in the stitch where the grey, white, and red meet on the neck.
1: Ch 11, sl st just under the red and between the grey and white, ch 1, sk 1st ch, 10 SC, fo
2: In green: sl st in next st in body, skip 1st purple st, 8 SC, 4 SC in last st -  (12)
3: ch 2, turn, 5 SC, sc2tog, 5 SC, sl st to body - (11 sc)
4: sl st in next st, ch 1, turn, 11 SC - (11)
5: Working across the end of the wing: 2 SC, ch 2, 2 SC, FO

Embroider eyes. 

For the feet, sl st black thread, then pull the thread through snugly. Cut to desired length.

For the beak, sl st black thread, pull through snugly, cut to desired length, then cover the beak in glue and form. Here is a video to help you understand how to make the beak.

Sew the keychain ring onto the upper back.

I ended up making extra "feathers" by leaving the thread tails for the wings, then adding more the same way you make the feet and beak. I didn't add any "feathers" to the tail - just the wings.

Terms, Techniques, Resources, and Tutorials

Here are the sites where I learned the techniques I use.

Changing colors
Straight seam in the round
Magic circle
Invisible Join - note that you will skip the 1st stitch and complete the join in the 2nd stitch.

Here is some terminology I use:

(...)* denotes how many times to repeat what is inside the parentheses

st = stitch

mc = magic circle

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

tc = triple (or treble) crochet

dtr = double treble crochet

sl st = slip stitch

fpdc = front post double crochet

bpdc = back post double crochet

blo = back loop only

flo = front loop only

sc2tog = single crochet 2 together

hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together 

dc2tog = double crochet 2 together

dc3tog = double crochet 3 together

inc = increase (make 2 of whichever stitch you have been working with in the same stitch)

dec = decrease

fo = finish off

Micro Amigurumi Keychain Size Eeyore Crochet Pattern

This is a pattern for a keychain size Eeyore. 

With the tail "nailed" on

Materials:

1 skein of pink embroidery floss

1 skein of grey embroidery floss

black embroidery floss for eyes, nose, mane, and tail

#12 0.60 mm crochet hook
Bead for tail "nail" - I used a jewelry bead.
Tiny keychain ring

Mc = Magic Circle

Sc = Single Crochet

Inc = 2 Single Crochet in 1 st

Dec = Sc 2 together

Fo = Finish Off

Tummy: Use grey thread
1: Sc 10 in mc
2: (sl st, ch 1 at the beginning of each round from now on), then 1 SC, 2 SC around. (15)
3: 1 SC, 1 SC, 2 SC around (20)
4: 1 SC in each of next 3, 2 SC in next around (25)
5: 1 SC in each of next 4, 2 SC in next around (30)
6-12: SC around (30)
13: 1 SC in next 4, sc2tog, around (25)
14-15: SC around
16: 1 SC in next 3, sc2tog around (20)
17-21: SC around
Stuff
22: Dec around until closed
FO leaving a long tail.

(I didn't join each round, but it might be a good idea to because my Eeyore's nose is a little lopsided.)

Head:

Using pink embroidery thread
1: 6 sc in mc
2: Inc around (12)
3: SC 3, Inc, sc 5, Inc, SC 2 (14)
4: SC 3, Inc, SC 6, Inc, SC 3 (16)
5: (SC 3, Inc)*4 (20)
6-8: SC around
Switch to grey thread
9-12: SC around
13 : (SC, Dec)*6, SC in last 2 st (14)
14-17: SC around
18-19: Dec around (until closed)
FO leaving a long tail.

Hind Leg: Make 2 using grey thread.
Ch 4
1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, Inc, SC, 3 SC in last st, SC, SC
2: (Inc)*2, SC, (Inc)*3, SC, Inc - (14)
3-5: SC around

6: Dec, SC 4, Dec*2, SC 4 - (11)

Begin stuffing

7- 13: SC around.
Finish stuffing
14: Dec until closed, FO leaving a long tail.

Front Leg: Make 2 using grey thread.
Ch 4
1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, Inc, SC, 3 SC in last st, SC, SC
2: (Inc)*2, SC, (Inc)*3, SC, Inc- (14)
3-5: SC around 

6: SC 5, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, SC 2 (10)
7: SC 5, sc3tog, SC 2 (8)

Begin stuffing
8-17: SC around
Finish stuffing
18: Dec around until closed, FO leaving a long tail.

Ear: Make 2 using grey thread. Start with a long tail for sewing
1: ch 5, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook, SC in next 3
2-4: Ch 1, turn, SC across (4)
5: ch 1, turn, SC, sc2tog, SC (3)
6: ch 1, turn, SC across (3)
7: ch 1, turn, sc3tog, fo
Sew in tail and embroider pink on the inside of the ear.

Tail: Use grey thread
1: ch 4, turn, SC in 2nd ch from hook, SC in next 2 (3)

2-6: Ch 1, turn, SC across (3)
Fo leaving tail

Bow: Use pink thread

1: ch 4, turn, SC in 2nd ch from hook, SC in next 2 (3)

2-6: Ch 1, turn, SC across (3)
Fo leaving tail

Pull leftover thread through to the middle of the bow, then wrap around until it is a bow shape. Do not cut thread. Using black thread, Make a slip knot with 2 or 3 strands of black thread. Using the pink thread, sew through the bow, the black slip knot, and the end of the tail. Sew the bow & tassel tightly onto the tail.

Sew the tail through the bead, then onto the body.

Attach all of the parts, then embroider eyes and a nose.

Mane: Cut black thread into 1" strips. Going down the middle of the back of the head, slip stitch, then pull both ends through snugly. Continue until you have the desired amount of "hair", then cut the mane to the desired length.

Coffee Mug or Teacup Cozy Crochet Pattern

This coffee cup cozy is a combination of 2 patterns I found.
The cluster stitch is taken from this bookmark pattern.
The coffee mug cozy idea is taken from this website.

Dimensions:
About 9 inches around (stretched out) and 3 inches tall.
The flap is about 2" long
Cluster: Insert your hook into the specified stitch (or stitch space) yarn over and pull up one loop (2 loops on the hook), yarn over the hook and insert your hook into the same specified stitch (or stitch space), yarn over and pull up one loop (4 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.

Make a chain about 9" long,
Starting in 2nd ch from hook, crochet *cluster, ch1* across at the beginning of the next row, ch 1, turn, and continue pattern.
Crochet rows until approximately 3 inches tall, then finish off.
For flap: in second color, 1/3 of the way down side, make 6 dc.
ch 2, turn, dc across - until desired length. (I made my flap about 2" long) Finish off
Add button.

Coffee Cup Thermos Sling Crochet Pattern

This sling is designed for you to be able to carry your coffee thermos and not spill it.

The dimensions are:

Band height: 2"

Band length: 8.5"

Handle length: 9"

Puff stitch = yo, insert into stitch, yo & pull through, 4x, yo, pull through all

1: CH until 8.5" long, sl st to make a circle
2: *4x puff stich, ch 1* around, sl st
3: Ch 2, *4x puff stitch, ch 1* around, sl st
4: Ch 2, 2 Dc in 1st space, 3 dc in each space around, sl st
5: Ch 2, 2 DC in the 1st space, *skip 2 st, 3 dc in next* around skip last 2 st, sl st
6-7: Sl st in next 2 st, Ch 2, *4x puff stitch, ch 1* in each space around, sl st
FO
Handle:
1: SC in 7 st, ch 2 turn
2+: DC in next 7 st, ch 2, turn (Repeat this row until the handle is the desired length. I did about 9 rows.)

Final Row: Sl St to the other side.

6-9 Month Cowboy Booties Crochet Pattern

6-9 Month Cowboy Booties

6-9 month size:

Sole: 4.25" long, 2.25" at the widest part of the toe

Leg width: 2.75" in diameter

Whole boot: 4" tall without point

Here is the pattern for my 3-6 month booties if you need a smaller size.

Ch = Chain

St = Stitch

Sc = Single Crochet

Hdc = Half Double Crochet

Dc = Double Crochet

Sl St = Slip Stitch

FO = Finish Off

Hdc2tog = Half Double Crochet 2 Together

Dc2tog = Double Crochet 2 Together

Inc = Single Crochet Increase

1 skein blue #3 light sports weight yarn - B color
1 skein brown #3 light sports weight yarn - A color
G 6 4.00 mm crochet hook

*The entire bootie pattern will be done using 2 strands at the same time, for a soft, but thick bootie.*

Sole - Make 1 of each color, then you will slip stitch them together.
Ch 12
1.Work 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 4 ch, 7 dc in last ch. Working across opposite side: dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, skip last st. - 28 sts

2: Beginning in the first sc: 2 Sc in each of the next 3 sts. Sc in next 10 sts. 2 Sc in each of the next 5 sts. Sc in next 10 sts. - 36 sts
3. *Hdc. Hdc 2 in next st* 3 times. Hdc in next 10 sts. *Dc. Dc 2 in next st* 5 times. Hdc in next 10 sts. sl st, FO. - 44 sts

*The length of the soles will be the finished length of the bootie, so measure before going on.
Working with B color sole on top, sl st around both soles (through both loops of color A and color B). Start in the middle stitch in the heel. When you get all of the way around, make one more sl st in the 1st st to make the seam even looking. Do not finish off.

Where the seam begins and ends

Bottom of sole

Top of sole

Boot Top and Leg: Color B

4. (Make 1st sc in the same st as previous sl st) SC around - 44 sts
5. 12 SC, 2 hdc2tog, hdc, 5 hdc2tog, hdc, 2 hdc2tog, 12 SC - 35 sts
6. 13 sc, 5 dc2tog, 12 sc - 30 sts
7. 12 SC, hdc2tog, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, hdc2tog,10 SC - 28 sts
8. 12 SC, hdc2tog, dc2tog, hdc2tog, 10 sc - 25 sts
9. 10 sc, hdc2tog, dc2tog, hdc2tog, 9 sc - 22 sts
10. (You will Crochet a few extra st in this round to finish in the middle of the heel) 23 SC, sl st, fo
11. With A color, Sl st in next st, 22 SC, SC in the same st as blue sl St (counts as 1st st of next round)

Before SC in same st as blue sl st

After SC in same st as blue sl st

12. Skip color A Sl st, SC around - 22 sts
13-17. ( Sl st + SC) in 1st st (You will begin the remaining rounds like this.), SC around - 22 sts

18. 6 SC, Inc, 12 SC, Inc, 3 SC - 25
19. 7 SC, Inc, 13 SC, Inc, 3 SC - 27
20. 8 SC, Inc, 14 SC, Inc, 3 SC, sl st to the center of the back, fo - 29 sts
21. Begin at the center of the back, attach color B, ch 1, 6 SC, (hdc + dc), ch 2, (dc + hdc), 14 SC, (hdc + dc), ch 2, (dc + hdc), 4 SC , SC in same st as began, Sl st in next, fo

Star

This star I made by crocheting with Color B directly onto the bootie.

I started in the middle of the boot leg and sl st, ch 1, sl st into a st higher up, ch 1, sl st into original st, ch 1, sl st into a st farther up and to the right, ch 1, sl st into original st, and so on.

After I finished the design, I finished by sewing over my crocheted stitches.